The route has several interesting micro-climate areas with distinct differences in conditions. Going from rock to snow, then back to rock, then back to snow is a rare experience indeed. The Alpine Garden was a tranquil break from the wind and a good spot for lunch.

The Alpine Garden to the summit

Exiting the Alpine Garden, we had to make a route choice. The summit cone was straight ahead, but we knew that the route goes to the left and then up to the summit. Between the garden and the summit is a snowfield and a steep climb though a boulder/talus field. this part of the climb was the only time I felt at the edge of my comfort range. I had only used trekking poles so far, but in the last snowfield I was wishing I had my crampons and axe out, but it was too late. Half way across, it was too steep to anchor and put them on. Fortunately, the snow was just soft enough to kick in nice edges and steps. When we got to the talus, I took out my ice axe, but at that point I really didn't need it.

We misread the route into the snowfield (not left enough) and took a more direct approach toward the summit. Soon we found the proper cairns (piles of rocks that mark the route) and got on track. So far, I felt very strong. I remember thinking that in good weather, this was not that hard of a climb. All of the sudden in the last 800 feet, I was tired. It is different from the enjoyable rhythm of snow climbing. There is no trail and you have to make constant decisions about the best way over and around the icy rocks and to the next cairn. We had been the first and only climbers on the Lion Head Winter Route until this point, but finally some other faster climbers passed us on the way to the summit. The summit doesn't look that far from here, it is.

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